Multiple Coats Of Another Companies Sealer And The Floor Still Stains

It does not matter how many times you apply a sealer. What matters is that there was sufficient sealer to do the job correctly. Most companies will tell you to apply with a sponge or spray. That can create a "paint job" on the surface that is not sufficient to actually seal.

TEST: Allow water drops to sit for a few minutes. It the floor darkens underneath - water is absorbing and the floor is not sealed.

If the floor is sealed in some places and not others - add more of the same sealer after removing any other coatings on top.

If the floor absorbs to some degree overall, you are able to remove any coatings on top and change to an Aldon penetrating sealer. See the page: "Redoing a Previously Sealed Surface".

Sealed Surface Has Dark Areas From Water Or Does Not Bead Water

An Aldon Sealer:

There was not sufficient sealer applied. Just applying a sealer does not mean it is sealed. There must be enough quantity applied to do the job correctly. That is why the labels mention not determining results by appearance, but by the water drop test.

Same as above, or it has broken down and needs to be re-done. See "Redoing a Previously Sealed Surface"

Sealer Shows Marring, Scuffing, Scaring, Heel Marks

This should not occur with an Aldon sealer (see below), but try mild liquid abrasive cleaners.

Aldon labels describe the "deep penetration" technique. If this is not done and the sealer is "painted" onto the surface in multiple coatings, there can be too much buildup. This excess buildup can be "soft" because sealers are designed to be resilient and mostly below the surface.

With a solvent based acrylic type sealer you can usually apply lacquer thinner to dissolve the buildup and allow it to penetrate as it was designed to do in the beginning. Follow with Aldon "Lifeguard" to achieve a tough, shiny, easily maintained finish.

Second Application Of Sealer Pulling Up First

It is not being applied per the label directions. When a sealer is only "painted on" it is not properly penetrated and adhered. When the second application is painted on with a roller it can tend to pull up the first. Just start over, follow the directions and the new sealer will liquify the old. The new and old will then penetrate properly. Allow to self level. See sealer "Application" page.

Solvent Based Sealer Shows Bubbles Imbedded

As a thick sealer penetrates into a very porous surface it will displace air which must migrate up through the sealer. The Aldon website attempts to recommend the best balance of sealer to surface type to achieve the desired appearance with the fewest applications.

If the surface is less absorbent than expected or the sealer is "painted" on instead of the way the label recommends - bubbles could form and be trapped.

Application in very hot weather can also cause premature drying which does not allow time for the bubbles to migrate out.

If the sealer is one of the "solvent based acrylics", new sealer will reliquify old sealer. Just apply more sealer per directions and allow air to migrate out. Lacquer thinner will also liquify this type sealer.

Sealer Dries To Varying Darkness On Flagstone Or Sandstone

These stones frequently have imbedded crystalline pockets that may be invisible until a solvent based sealer is used. This sealer darkens the softer stone, but not the crystal. Test first. If appearance is not desirable with that sealer, use instead Aldon "Same Day Sealer". It will penetrate and protect without darkening.

Sealer Shows Peeling Areas

This can even happen with an Aldon sealer if:

• The sealer was not applied according to the label instructions "and" (not "or") the conditions of heat, rain, traffic, abnormal abuse, etc. are beyond the norm.
• We know our sealers are applied incorrectly many times, but they are formulated to allow for great variances in job conditions. The only times we have failures are when extreme conditions are coupled with an application technique that was in opposition to the application instructions. See the "Application" page.

Sealer Shows White, Hazy Areas

There are numerous causes:

1. If it has shown up under a newly applied sealer, it may be residual moisture. It should disapper in a few days, if there is no longer a source of subsurface water.
2. If it comes off on your wet finger - see the "Efflorescence" page.
3. When a sealer is peeling, the air gap between sealer and surface looks white and hazy. If you scratch it with a coin and the sealer peels off down to the flooring surface - it is not properly bonded because it was not applied correctly. See the "Application" page.
4. If if occurs during a situation of standing water - it may disappear after the water is allowed to evaporate out. If it doesn't go away, it is a non-Aldon sealer that has been damaged and needs to be re-done. See the page - "Redoing a Previously Sealed Surface".

Spotty Appearing Areas

One cause can be an uneven first application. Depending on sealer type, the more saturated areas, once cured, can repel the next application. Where repelled it is light in color. Where not repelled and the second application penetrates, it will be darker at first. Once it all dries, the color should be even overall.

With an uneven, spotty first application, if a puddle of second application sealer is allowed to dry on top, some will penetrate and some could remain on top. Use a third application, but this time according to the directions and everything should even out naturally.

If You Think Your Sealer Has Caused A Problem ( any companies sealer )

Read the application instructions, then apply to an uninstalled, virgin tile straight from the package according to the sealers label instructions. Note the differences between this test and your floor. Common sense will usually show that something occurred on the floor that caused the problem. See other areas of this Problem Solving section now that you have more information about the situation.